What with the ice storms in the U.S. and
Canadian northeast in 1998, it seemed to me to be a good time (1999)
to think about a generator to provide backup power - just in
case!
After speaking with the local generator
suppliers about their various models and doing a lot of surfing
on the Internet for information, I made the decision to go with
diesel (longer fuel storage life and economy). I ordered a 12 kW
unit from DISCOVERY
DIESEL in British Columbia.
Don't let the prices scare you (too badly!) - they are in
Canadian Dollars.
The engine is a small (cute) 4-cy. KUBOTA. The
alternator is a STAMFORD unit made by NEWAGE
INTERNATIONAL. The generator is less than 24" wide and 48" long.
After a couple of weeks the generator
arrived - damaged! I had to order a new radiator and mounts as
one of the trucking companies had dropped something heavy on the
top front corner. The carrier's insurance covered the cost of the
parts and my labor to repair.
It was a traumatic moment when I turned the key, but start it
did. I've since run it for several hours with a 50% load
consisting of cosmetically challenged electric baseboard heaters
borrowed from a local electrical supplier. Fuel consumption seems
to be a bit less than a gallon per hour at that load.
The next step was to change the house
wiring at the main panel to allow for the generator connection. I
opted to install a transfer switch and a sub-panel. All circuits
that I wanted to power by generator were transferred to the
sub-panel. The transfer switch selects either the power utility
or the generator as the source.
The circuits selected were:
1. Furnace - oil/wood combination forced air.
2. Basement lights.
3. Water pump.
4. Water heater - gas, but needs electrical power.
5. Refrigerator.
6. Freezer.
7. Bathroom fan and lights.
8. Microwave.
9. Kitchen lights and counter plugs.
10. Den lights and plugs for TV/Sat. Receiver/Radio.
The current required for all of these
devices totaled to 51.3 Amps at 120 Volts AC Therefore, 51.3 x
120 = 6156 Watts (6.156 kW). The 12 kW unit is more than able to
handle the load. At 240 Volts AC it will supply 50 Amps per side.
It is also not likely that all of these loads will be on at one
time
The generator is mounted on a small,
utility trailer. Should the power fail, I move it from it's
storage location in the barn, over to the house, and plug it in.
With the trailer, I can also move it to power my office or my
parent's place nearby.
For more detail on how to calculate the wattage needs and generator size for your home, see the presentation I did for our stake's Bischop's Welfare Council in November (2003). This twenty page file is in Adobe Acrobat (.pdf) format. If you don't have Acrobat installed, you can download the free reader program at http://www.adobe.com.
HOW OTHERS DID IT
I sent out an e-mail to all on the M.A.R.A.
e-mail list. These replys came back.
BARRY - N2PCT
Barry had been powering the essentials with
extension cords from the generator to the house. He decided to make things a bit
more convenient by installing a Gen/Tran switch and an external connection on
the side of his house. This is similar to the system described in the Popular
Mechanics article on the previous page.
NAMELESS INDIVIDUALS
Several people indicated that they have
installed a 30 amp clothes dryer outlet (or used an existing one)
and connected the generator output to that, without using a
transfer switch, feeding power directly to the house panel. This
method is not legal in most places because of the possibility of
"back feeding" power to the power line. This has the
potential to injure power company personnel working on
"dead" lines.
These individuals have a procedure that
they follow to ensure that "back feeding" will not
happen. To begin, they PLACE THE MAIN PANEL BREAKER IN
THE OFF
POSITION.
After the main breaker is off, turn off all
circuits in the house panel. Then, and only then, plug the
generator into the dryer outlet. Next, power up the generator.
Once the generator has settled selectively turn on the breakers
for the desired circuits.
A dryer outlet is rated at 30 amps/230VAC
and can be used with generators up to 6500 watts. Remember, the
prongs on the dryer cable are exposed. Plug it in before powering
on the generator.
When power is restored the reverse
proceedure should be obvious. Shut off the generator and
then remove the plug from the dryer outlet. Then return
the main panel breaker to its ON position.
The generator should never be
plugged in while there is utility power present. If you
want to pit your generator against those of the power company, I
can guarantee one thing - you'll lose!
JIM - W7QIS
While Jim does not have a generator now, he
did plan for the future when he had his house built. He had a
DPDT transfer switch installed to handle the generator. He also
has a panel in the radio room to monitor the generator output.
CHUCK - WD4HXG
A recommendation from Chuck is to buy a
book about the electrical standards for your area if you plan on
doing the work yourself. Any electrical wholesaler should have
these available. An alternative would be to check with your local
library to see if they have a copy.
His second suggestion is to have an
electrican install a "definite purpose contactor". This
contactor is energized by the generator output and automatically
disconnects the local utility mains. This device performs the
same task as the transfer switch but does it automatically.
RICK - VE3ATM
The information that follows is just some
information that my father has learned over the last few years.
Since retiring he got himself involved with small motor repairs
and has discovered a number of things about small gasoline
engines and fuel storage.
1. All fuel should be stored in out-lying
sheds to reduce/eliminate the fire/explosion hazard. (Your
insurance policy may restrict the amount you can legally store -
VE1VQ)
2. All caps should be kept loose and
portable tanks/cans should not befilled to the top of the can to
allow for expansion/contraction because of daily fluctuating
temperatures.
3. Fuel should not be stored for more than
3 months as gum and varnish begins to increase and octane rating
decreases. He has discovered, to his amazement, that some brands
of small engines will not run properly at all with fuel that is
over 5 months old, as is the case of lawn mowers and snow blowers
that sit between seasons. Fuel additives can be added when the
implement is stored for the lay over between seasons to stabilise
the fuel and reduce the above effects.
4. Remove the spark plug and place a
teaspoon full of oil in the spark plug hole and turn the motor
over a number of times. Replace the spark plug and then store the
implement for the season.
5. Replace the fuel filter every couple of
seasons. (Replacing the spark plug is cheap protection as well -
keep the old one for a spare - VE1VQ).
This is only a few more items for
consideration when working with emergency generators.
IN GENERAL
Whether you do it "by the
book" or "by the seat of your pants" depends on
you and the comfort level you have when it comes to these things.
If you are not absolutely sure of what you are doing then
hire somebody who is.
Unless you are prepared to install a
generator capable of powering the entire house think about using
your house circuits selectively. A smaller generator can be used
if you only switch on the lights, water pump, furnace, etc., as
you need them.
If you have an electric range (which takes
a lot of power) consider using a small counter top oven, camping
stove or barbecue (the latter two should not be used in the
house!). If that same range is overdue for replacement you might
give some thought to a propane or gas range.
The whole idea is to be as self sufficient
as possible when the lights go out. You may not be able to
maintain your current lifestyle. Only you can determine what you
can live with (or without). Plan ahead!
